Friday, June 13, 2014

Medellín, Colombia

When you think of Medellín, you think of drug cartels, Pablo Escobar, wonderful weather, sculptures everywhere and very pretty women with certain, shall we say...enhancements. 

In the 90's Medellín was noted as the most dangerous city in world; more dangerous than Beruit. Due to its amazing recovery, it was recently named the most innovative city in the world. I took this great walking tour that explained so much of the culture, politics, conflict and recovery. Too much to go into here, but really fascinating.  One really interesting thing was that "we", the tourists, were the point of interest. Local people don't see many tourists. In fact, I didn't see any others that day. So the locals kept eavesdropping on what the guide was saying and would often stand right beside us. The next day, while I was on my own, I had only one tourist sighting, an English couple. People are still afraid to come here. But they shouldn't. 



What is evident in the city are the "new" spaces designed to convert the "worst" of the past (conflict, poverty, crime areas) to "new" spaces that are essentially signs of hope, peace and inclusion. Plaza of light is one example below of this renewal, known here as "democratic architecture". 



During the 1980's there was a local law mandating every new building to invest 5% of the budget in a work of art displayed to the public, usually a sculpture. The legacy is around 300 monuments and sculptures scattered throughout the city and the nickname of "City of Sculptures".  


Many of them are Botero's, who is claimed to be the world's most famous "living" artist. See his sculptures below and some paintings from the museum. Medellín is his hometown. Hard to believe these sculptures on the street are worth millions each. 






Also part of the renewal was the building of brand new metro system. There is a great cable car ride as an extension to the metro. It was built to connect the poorest area of the city, the mountain side, to the rest of the city.  It was a political act to prove the point that the government and city cares about its poorest citizens. It worked. These folks would have remained on the fringes with no access to employment and services. And "people on the fringes" is something this country cannot afford to have. It's an extremely poor area. See photos below. 






The weather here is almost perfect. Because of this Medellín is known as the "City of Eternal Spring".  It has beautiful parks and gardens everywhere. 



As for the women...it's true. They tell me that a common past-time for the men here is to play the "Fake or Real?" game. All I can say is that even the manikins look good!


Overall, Medellín is a GREAT city. Worth a visit. 

Monday, June 9, 2014

Zona Cafetera, Colombia.

headed south to the coffee region to stay at a coffee farm / hacienda. It's a beautiful place with magnificent vistas. They have this great infinity pool. See the pictures below. It poured rain the first day so I did my coffee tasting and basket weaving and deferred the plantation tour for another day. Stop. Basket weaving? What? Yes. Basket weaving. After all my South American adventures, it finally came down to this...


But there is a point. Bamboo is indigenous here (or endemic is the right word I think) and it is a big part of the coffee culture. It was used to build haciendas and to weave baskets to collect the coffee beans. They are all still hand picked even today, in Colombia. 

Coffee tasting, called "cupping":


Pictures of the hacienda: 








And the magnificent pool...




I stayed three nights. Saturday night was full with Colombian tourists but on Sunday and Monday nights it was just me. I was quite happy as I was ploughing through a gripping John Grisham novel. I had just finished Gabrial García Márquez' One Hundred Years of Solitude only because he was a Colombian writer (so I was happy to be reading a thriller). Two nights of solitude was quite enough for me!  I'm looking forward to Medellín!  

On the second day I went to the Parque Nacional del Café where I got so much history and culture. I loved it. There were museums, interpretive centers, botanical gardens, and shows. Some photos below, mainly of the views and garden. 








On the third day I went to Cocora Valley, best known for its Wax Palm Trees, Colombia's national tree and the largest species of palm tree in the world. I had a wonderful hike. It's a beautiful place. 







I planted my own Palm Tree with my very own Juan Valdés! 


And we spotted a Great Egret and caught a few lovely shots...




And I rounded off the day with a visit to the oldest town in the region; Salento. It was very touristy minus the tourists. Colombian holidays begin in a few weeks. So it was quiet. Lovely colors. Too many souvenir shops. 








This morning (last day) I finish up the tour of the plantation. It's very interesting and I'm the only one. It was nicer that way as opposed to a hoard of tourists. The pickers make about $5 a day (USD). That's just so astoundingly low. They work 6 days a week. Unbelievable. In any case, here are some photos.