Valparaíso is probably one of the most interesting places I have visited so far because it has an overt tension between greatness and decline, vibrancy and decay, beauty and ugliness. Just taking a look around I felt such a contradiction of emotions. Did I like this place or hate it? Fresh fruit, fish and markets. But the smell of decay and litter all around. Graffiti posing as art. Striking murals and bad paint jobs. Beautiful restaurants and homelessness in the streets. Magnificent views strewn with electricity wires and telephone poles. Packs of dogs in the streets. With over 40 hills in the city, all with distinct neighborhoods and many serviced by funiculars, this place must have been spectacular in its day!
The short version is that it was the most important port town in the 19th century as the stopover between the Atlantic and Pacific. Particularly as people were making their way to California during the gold rush. Then along came the Panama Canal in 1914 and the city lost its strategic relevance. To note how quickly and sustained the decline was, even to this day, take a look at this photo. The building was designed by an Italian architect and was supposed to be a grand hotel, and was to open in 1915. Due to the Panama Canal, it never did. It stands there in decay and dereliction in the main square right beside the Chilean Naval Headquarters. Interestingly enough (and horrifyingly enough) the granddaughter of the original owner, an Italian old lady, lives on the second floor.
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| The hotel that never opened in 1915 |
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| Naval Headquarters |
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| Graffiti is everywhere |
The murals are all over the place. Some are great while others are just awful. These are some of the nicer ones.
Street life was vibrant. Here's a quick video of Friday night street life!
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